How These Ralph Lauren Pants Stack Up Against The Brand's GOAT Chinos
A way too in-depth analysis of the Ralph Lauren Suffield pant vs my vintage Andrew pants.
The most famous name in Ralph Lauren brand history is, well, Ralph Lauren. But an argument could be made that, in terms of lore, a distant second place title belongs to the name “Andrew”—and I’m not referring to, at least not specifically, Andrew Lauren, the son of Ralph and Ricky. Rather, I’m talking about the pants that were named (I assume) for Andrew. These double pleated chinos debuted in the lineup around the early 1990s, and have become an icon in terms of product history for the nearly 60 year old label.
Why do people (myself included) love the Andrew pant so much? Well, as far as chinos go, they’re kind of, and I know this sounds too simple, perfect. I’ll explain: The fabric, like all good chinos, is a lovely dense cotton twill that gets peachy and better with age. Fit-wise, they’re practically the platonic ideal of how chinos should fit in a just world—by which I mean loose through the hip, thigh, and knee, with a light taper that gives them a streamlined, timeless silhouette. The double pleats are not only practical in terms of providing comfort to your upper regions, but give the pants a sense of high class sophistication that is synonymous with Ralph Lauren. In short, if I had to choose one pair of pants to perfect encapsulate the RL ethos, it’d be the Andrew pant.
Now, part of the reason the Andrew pants have become famous for Ralph devotees, especially over the last few years, is that the brand hasn’t made them for at least a decade, if not more. (One report I saw said they began phasing them out in 2010.) And if you’re like me, and believe the made in U.S. versions are the purest form, then the true Andrew extinction event was closer to 3 decades ago. On one level people inherently want what they can’t have, which in turn has driven interest in vintage pairs that pop up on places like eBay. But beyond the psychological factors, these pants are an instant way to add some 90s aura to a fit at a time when a lot of people, myself included, are trying to do just that. You throw on a polo, a tee, loafers, sneakers, whatever—if you’ve got on these pants, the overall vibe you’ll be putting out is well-dressed, 80 or 110 series Land Cruiser-driving dad.
Yet, as is the case with all discontinued things, finding a pair of Andrew pants in one’s preferred waist size, color, and inseam grows more challenging by the day. And as pairs become scarcer, the price of those on the market goes up. (I took a couple economics classes in college.) It wasn’t uncommon just a few years ago to pay 20 or 30 dollars for a pair of miUSA Andrew pants. Today, it’s not shocking to see them listed for closer to 100, even if the later, made in Macau (and elsewhere) models can still be had for around 45 or 50. My point is, if scouring the secondhand market for a pair of chinos sounds like more headache than it’s worth, I wouldn’t blame you.
Luckily, you no longer have to set out on a widespread secondhand search if what you’re ultimately after is a pair of chill-fitting double pleated Ralph Lauren chinos. See, the brand has slowly started bringing back pants like these into its line-up, even if none of them don the Andrew name. I’m not sure when, but at some point in the last few years they unveiled the Whitman, which is similar to the Andrew in terms of overall vibe (double pleats, chino fabric) but features a coin pocket flap that I don’t personally care for. They’re also only available in classic khaki, versus the superior, lighter “stone.”
But even more recently, Big Ralph debuted a style called the Suffield relaxed fit chino, and when I first saw them online, I thought they looked, well, very Andrew-y. They’ve got the on seam pockets, the double pleats, and the easygoing fit with a lightly tapered leg. Even moreso than the Whitman, which itself is a direct corollary to the pre-Andrew “Polo Chinos,” the Suffield seems to be approximating what made people fall in love with the Andrew in the first place.
But I had to know for myself just how similar the Suffields are in terms of fit, fabric, construction, and overall essence to my beloved early 90s made in USA Andrew pants, and my (admittedly less desirable) made in Macau Andrew pants. Being the product sicko I am, I knew the only way to really get to the truth of the matter was to buy a pair of Suffields and compare all of them side by side, up close and personal. So that’s exactly what I did for today’s post.
Below, you’ll find an in-depth analysis of these pairs of Ralph Lauren pants, from fit to fabric to construction. And ultimately, I’ll let you know if I think it’s worth sitting tight until a pair of made in USA Andrews hits eBay in your preferred measurements, or if you should just skip the wait and get a pair of Suffield pants for $145 on the Ralph Lauren website instead. Let’s get to it, and enjoy!!!
